F L O R E N C E
Florence was founded as a colony
of the Etruscan city of Fiesole in about 200 BC, later becoming
the Roman Florentia, a garrison town controlling the Via
Flaminia. In the early 12th century the city became a free
comune and
by 1138 it was ruled by 12 consuls, assisted by the Council
of One Hundred, a bunch of rich merchants. In 1207, due to
intractable problems with faction fighting, the council was
replaced by a foreign (and thus allegedly unbiased) governor,
the podestà.
In the XIII century the pro-papal Guelphs and pro-imperial Ghibellines
started a century-long bout of bickering, which wound up with
the Guelphs forming their own government in the 1250s. By 1292
Florence had had it with the obstreperous nobles, excluding them
from government. The city became increasingly democratised, eventually
becoming a commercial republic controlled by the Guelph-heavy
merchant class. 
The great plague of 1348 cut the city's population by almost
half and really messed with people's heads. In the latter part
of the XIV century the Medicis began consolidating power, eventually
becoming bankers to the papacy. Cosimo Medici - patron of artists
such as Donatello, Brunelleschi, Fra Angelico and Filippo Lippi
- became ruler of Florence. Perhaps the most famous Medici was
Lorenzo, grandson of Cosimo, who took power in 1469. His court
fostered a great flowering of art, music and poetry, and Lorenzo
sponsored philosophers and artists such as Botticelli, da Vinci
and Michelangelo.
Piazza del Duomo
The remarkable Duomo, with its pink, white and green marble
façade
and characteristic dome, dominates the city's skyline. The building
took almost two centuries to build (and even then the façade
wasn't completed until the XIX century), and is the fourth-largest
cathedral in the world. The enormous dome was designed by Brunelleschi,
and its interior features frescoes and stained-glass windows
by some of the Renaissance-era's best: Vasari, Zuccari, Donatello,
Uccello and Ghiberti.
Take a deep breath and climb up to take a closer look, and you'll
be rewarded by fantastic views of the city and an insight into
how the dome was so cleverly constructed - without scaffolding
(though there's plenty of that propping the dome up now!)
The dome still defines the scale of the city, and no building
in town is taller.
Giotto designed the cathedral's Campanile, and Pisano and della
Robbia contributed bas-reliefs. It too is clad in white, pink
and green marble.
The Baptistry is adjacent - it's one
of the city's oldest buildings, and was originally a pagan
temple. The building
is most famous for its gilded bronze doors. Those on the south
are by Pisano, but it is the doors facing east (and in the
direction of the cathedral) that are most talked about. Created
by Ghiberti, they are known as the Gates of Paradise (a moniker
believed to have been dubbed by Michelangelo). Created between
1424 and 1452, their beauty and sophistication mark them as
one of the first products of the Renaissance. The Baptistery’s
ceilings feature gory XIII century mosaics of the Last Judgement.
Behind the cathedral is the Duomo Museum, which features original
panels taken from the doors of the Baptistery, Brunelleschi's
death mask, equipment used to build the dome and an impressive
sculpture collection, including pieces by Michelangelo.
Piazza della Signoria
The piazza was at the hub of Florence's political life through
the centuries, and is surrounded by some of the city's most
celebrated buildings. With its famous group of sculptures,
the loggia looks a lot like an outdoor sculpture gallery; Cellini's
magnificent statue of Perseus and Giambologna's Rape of a Sabine
are particularly striking.
Guarding the Palazzo Vecchio, is a copy of Michelangelo's oh-so-strokable
David. The palazzo has been Florence's town hall since 1322.
Its characteristic tower is another of Florence's symbols,
and the interior of the palazzo was lavishly redecorated by
Vasari. An elevated corridor called Vasari's Corridor leads
from the palazzo, through the Uffizi, across the Arno by way
of the Ponte Vecchio, and all the way down to the Palazzo Pitti.
The private walkway was used by the Medici family
as a way of visiting their scattered palaces without having
to mingle with
the masses. The walkway is lined, as if merely
by second thought, with works of art.
Backing onto the loggia, and leading all the way down to the
banks of the River Arno, is the famed Uffizi Gallery. The gallery's
wonderful collection is arranged to illustrate the evolving
story of Florentine art. Some of the most famous pieces are
in rooms 7-18; they include Botticelli's Birth of Venus, Titian's
Venus of Urbino, Michelangelo's Holy Family and Piero della
Francesca's Duke & Duchess of Urbino.
If you make it out of the Uffizi with any energy and concentration
left to spare, wander along the banks of the Arno towards the
Ponte Vecchio.
The famous XIV century bridge is lined with shops selling
gold and silver jewellery, a step up from the butcher shops
which previously lined the bridge before Cosimo I decided glitter
was better than gore. The bridge was the only one in the city
to escape destruction during the II World War. |